Fish Souk

When you live in Oman, the contrast between old and new is always evident. A few hundred meters from our house is a Bronze Age burial mound. One of the teachers at TAISM first identified it and a month or so back he had to notify the Ministry of Heritage about its endangerment. A two lane expressway is now being built over the site.

A few kilometers from our house are the remains from a large “fort”. It is actually more of a house, but these structures needed to be heavily fortified to keep out the enemy. It is abandoned now, but you can still see the intricate craftsmanship of the roof, the imported wood from Africa, and the central tower which acted as an air conditioner. This particular home was probably deserted just a few decades ago, but with the ease the mud walls erode, it looks much more ancient. The relatives of the people who once lived in this place probably now live just down the street in house made in cement.

When you travel in the desert it is hard to remember that the first tourists came to visit the Bedouin in Oman just a couple of decades ago. During this time, the local people did not use cars; the camel was the only mode of transport. Down by the coast, you see the remnants of countless different types of fishing boats. They had all been made from local palm or imported teak wood. Now they sit abandoned; their skeletons slowly turning a dull grey from the sun. The boat builders of Sur still make Dows, but they are outfitted with diesel engines instead of sails.

It may seem like I am lamenting the fact that Oman is changing, and I guess I am. However, I think it would be incredibly hypocritical of me (a man who visits Starbucks, drives an Izuzu Trooper, and chooses to lie on the beach for relaxation) to tell others that the traditional ways are the best. I just hope someone is paying attention to all that is being lost. This is true all over the world. Just think of the neighborhood you grew up in, how many changes has it undergone? In this crazy age of information overload and technological advancement I hope we do not forget who we are.

Anyway, the reason for this entry was to share a short traditional experience Ellen, Taj, and I had the other weekend. We drove about 20 kilometers to a fish souk. This market takes place every weekend on a very ordinary beach. The fishermen literally drive their fiberglass boats to shore, unload their catch on a tarp and wait for the customers. Some of the fish are still dying as they lay helpless on a piece of plastic staring at the mid-morning sun. If you wish, you can buy Kingfish (mackerel), shrimp, ray, cuttlefish (like a squid), anchovies, grouper, and a lot of other unidentifiable specimens. Right now it is Tuna season. You can buy Tuna fresh or cooked. The way they prepare the Tuna is to slow roast it with coals in the sand. It is wonderful. We bought a pound and a half of fresh Tuna for $1.30.

The real treat of visiting a place like this is that you get to witness the way regular people live. I am sure the souk has been going on for many, many years. The techniques in which the fisherman catch the fish may be different, but the way in which they sell their catch has not really changed a whole lot.